These are the finest plastic coaches
I have ever seen. The fluting is the best, the truck castings
are excellent. However there are some shortcomings (I hate to
criticize such an excellent model).
-
Wheelsets: On the first runs
of the 46 seat coach, 10-6 sleeper, baggage, and RPO, and all
were out of gauge - too narrow. They can be corrected and roll
nicely. The wheelsets do not have to be replaced, though many
modelers are doing that. Since these cars are set up for lighting
kits, use care in wheelset modifications.
-
The extension on the end of the
car where the diaphragm is attached is too shallow compared
with the prototype.
-
The diaphragm spring is very
strong. Standard magnetic uncouplers will not work with these
cars On other cars, fans have removed the diaphragm and replaced
it with American Limited diaphragms.
- The smooth areas of the sides of these cars
have no molded seams. The model is totally smooth.
- All cars I have checked have proper coupler
height. These cars do have a unique swinging coupler arrangement
with plastic knuckles. Those seeking to install metal Kadees
will need to do some modification.
- The underbody boxes usually are open to the
center of the car. For viewing at a low angle, modelers will
want to seal off the back sides.
Removing the Roof
The roof is held on with clips. Care
must be taken to remove them without leaving marks at the seam or
worse.
-
Use a flat hobby knife blade
to locate the tabs and press in while lifting the roof. Be patient.
Pulling too hard will break something, but not pulling enough
will not keep one location open while you seek the next one.
You will notice form the above photo that there is a gray piece
of plastic which clips to the side of the car and to the roof.
That piece helps keep the two aligned.
-
Do not remove the roof until
you are read to do some work on the car. When you remove it,
then plan on painting the interior and gluing in the grabs (from
the inside). If you want lighting, do it all at the same time.
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